We were back in the old neighborhood last week. A short visit, but we were able to clear up a few more things at the house and finally get our visas added to our passports. A long process, finally at an end….well I say at an end, but we still have an immigration meeting to go through at the end of August, but the end for now. Even better? I was able to pop in to visit the Wednesday knitting group. Of course it was great to see them, but it also meant an additional round of hugs. Hugs=wonderful!
I’m signed up to start language classes in a couple of weeks, but in the meantime, I’ve been practicing for situational activities. Yesterday we went next door to the pastry shop for coffee and croissants. All went well until I asked for black tea for Bruce…they don’t have it. Green or chamomile is all that’s available. But for under 4 Euro we had a lovely time with great people watching. A couple of times we got a sort of side-eye look, like we might be sitting at someone’s regular table. Hopefully we’ll become regular enough to score something regular ourselves. There are at least 2 dozen different pastries to try, so we’ll have to make a months long study to discover some favorites.
Our daily walks always give us something new (that’s because we so frequently decide to make a turn in a new direction and get lost). Fortunately, walking for another few blocks inevitably brings us to an intersection we recognize, and we’re grateful for the extra time spent walking. The town is slow-moving, and we aren’t trying to rush the pace.

I’m glad to be back to knitting every day, although this sock is a challenge. It’s simple enough, but two strands of 4-ply on small needles makes for a dense and stiff fabric (not to mention that it stresses the fingers). I love the faux seam down the back. It took me back to an article I read some time ago about reproducing Renaissance silk stockings. The “seam” was in imitation of earlier sewn stockings made from woven fabric. Knitting in the round removed the necessity for the seam, but knitters left the remnants of the seam in to draw attention to the shape of the leg. At the time, men’s legs were considered attractive, and finely-knit, form-fitting stockings contributed to the “look.”

Ball at the Valois Court (detail)- c. 1580. André Chastel, French Art: The Renaissance, 1430–1620. Translated by Deke Dusinberre. Paris: Flammarion, 1995. ISBN 208013583X. Page 169., Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons.
The sock I’m knitting is nothing like the examples above. For a start, I’m knitting with wool rather than silk, and at a much larger gauge. The pattern for the one I’m knitting is designed to be worn not only over a normal pair of socks, but extending up over the wearer’s pants as well. These are fishermen’s socks that were still being knitted in the early-mid-20th century in the Hebrides.

There isn’t much demand for this kind of outer garment any longer, so mine are being modified to be knee-high boot socks. Because of the density of the yarn, they will be very warm. I don’t picture me wearing them here in Portugal, but I can see they would be pretty useful for tramping around after sheep in rubber Wellies. These also are being knit with one strand each of two different yarns. One is 4-ply white Cheviot, and the other is mohair. This might not have been the best choice if they really were supposed to serve as a wind/rain barrier in rough weather, but for next to the skin in a boot, I think the extra softness will be great. I’m also thinking that it will wear well given the strength of the Cheviot.

An image of a ‘hosier’ from Le Arti di Bologna, made by Simon Guillain after Annibale Carracci, etching, first published in 1646. Wikimedia Commons.

Since I’m knitting with two strands for my fisherman’s sock, I thought it would be fun to share this 17th century etching of a knitter and his unique yarn holder. Since I’m not walking around, I don’t need anything this elaborate. All of my knitting accessories are in boxes somewhere between here and a dock in New York, so any old cardboard box will do.
My other big project for the moment is working on an article about the Scottish Highlands Industries; an organization founded in Victorian times to promote rural handcrafts particularly after the economic devastation of the potato famine.
Not long before we came over to set up our apartment, Bruce and I were watching an Andrea Bocelli concert online, and it occurred to me that once here, it would not be out of the question to see him in person. Travel is relavely easy, and everything is close. I did a little search and discovered that he is giving a concert in a town about a 35 minute drive from here on May 31. We have tickets! We moved on the idea a little late, and there are no hotels in town, so an overnight stay may just be out of the question. We had assumed we could get there and back by bus (which we can), but with no hotels at a reasonable distance from the arena, we might have to rent a car. We shall see.


So that’s the music — oranges have become our new lunchtime favorites. The mandarine oranges are inexpensive and abundant, and they are wonderfully sweet and juicy. We are also making a study of the local wines — port as well as the local reds and whites. They can be had at the grocery store (as well as many of the little bodega shops), and often are on special for under $4/bottle. There are a few up in the $12-20/bottle range, but I’ve decided that’s outside my current “tasting” budget. I brought home a $1.99 merlot today. If it’s not drinkable, I’ll toss it. So far, that hasn’t happened.
Enjoy the concert. I went to Phoenix last winter to see him. It was fantastic.
I’m so happy you are still doing your articles. I miss you my friend.
Thanks Suzanne! I needed the break while we were getting ready to move/sell the house. Good to back at it.