I use the Excel computer program to chart my designs, but as nice as they look on paper, they must be knit for me to know if they really work. Here is the first draft of the leg of a sock pattern I’m working on. Other than the 2×2 rib and the stockinette background, the design is a celebration of simple twisted stitches.
My first awareness of this style (that seems to have developed in the Styrian Enns Valley of alpine Austria), came when I found the book Twisted-Stitch Knitting. Known widely as Bavarian stitches or traveling stitches, the technique dates at least to the 18th century; possibly earlier.
Maria Erlbacher published 3 booklets in 1982 that were a compilation of patterns passed down from Frau Thekla Zeiler and other families residing in the area. The charts and graphs were based on the 1944 book, Deutsche Strickkunst: ein Arbeisheft.
In 2002, the 3 booklets were joined into a single volume, translated into English, and published by Schoolhouse Press.
Before that time, the designs were passed from knitter to knitter, and were recorded in knitted samplers, knit in the round, and then steeked (cut open) and laid flat.
This detail from a currently and commercially available Austrian sock still features the old patterns, although at a price of $29 it’s unlikely that these were hand knit.
The traditional pattern notations for this knitting really had me baffled until I found Norah Gaughan’s Twisted-Stitch Sourcebook. Her simplification of the two-stitch patterns charted like cables, allowed me to finally understand what was going on. All of Gaughan’s patterns are knit flat, but my plan is to knit them in the round, as was done with the early samplers.
This pair of socks got me moving again.
You might have already guessed that this has something to do with the Gunnister fragment that has been keeping my attention recently. I am reasonably certain that knitting was still executed mainly or solely in the round at the point where the fragment was knit, and that the Gunnister fragment was likely made that way.
This would push the date for the origins of twisted-stitch knitting earlier into the 17th century (the Gunnister finds date to about 1700, and this knitting style is quite sophisticated, arguing for an earlier production date).
A really great tutorial on twisted knit stitches can be found here. That tutorial finally clicked on the light on the traditional notations, although I’ve opted for the simplified version in the pattern I’m writing. There is enough to learn in working the stitches without having to learn a whole new way to read a pattern.
Norman Schwarze’s sock pattern (above left) is free if you sign up for his newsletter. After reading all of the variations of how these stitches have been worked, I reluctantly gave up on Norah Gaughan’s method in favor of Norman’s technique. It is a little more fiddly, but gives a more pronounced result. Both his and Norah’s techniques feature twists without the need for a cable needle.
The major difference between what he has done with his sock pattern and what I’m doing with the Gunnister sample is a stockinette versus reverse stockinette background. In my opinion, the stockinette background does not detract from the twisted stitches, and those stitches are sufficiently raised that the purl side is not absolutely necessary. And…any time I can avoid slowing down to purl is a plus in my book.
Off the needles…
This week I finished knitting this hat from Annfield Angora DK (70% mohair/30% Shetland wool). I love this yarn, and I really like the pattern designed by Clare Hutchinson specifically for the yarn. I didn’t think, however, that this was a good use of the yarn. Because of the soft hand and twist, the yarn stretches easily, so I found it difficult to manage the left edge of the cables and the following purl stitch. As I knit it, I was dreaming of a cardigan with lace patterns knit with a larger needle to make it light-weight, but still super warm. I will use the pattern again with a yarn having a tighter twist, and there is no question but that I’d love to use this yarn again as well. It is soft, for sure, and the addition of the Shetland wool keeps the halo in check to a level that you are nearly convinced that it can’t really be mohair — although it most certainly is.
I think this hat may need a pompom.
I couldn’t leave Annfield without showing you two of their stars.
On the needles…
Not surprisingly, there are socks on my needles right now. I’m testing my Gunnister-inspired sock pattern using two different yarns from my friend Marguerite at Westfield Croft; one a rich brown Shetland wool with a firm twist, and a light beige-grey with an even more pronounced twist.
I’ve started with the darker color even though I was a little concerned that the stitches might not show up as well as on the lighter shade. I just can’t resist the brown (morrit is the name for the color). And, it turns out that I had no reason for concern. The stitches show up really well, and stand clearly against the background.
One of the skeins has a few scraps of vegetable matter still in the ply, but that doesn’t bother me at all. It is easy enough to pick out, and keeps me closer to their source from the animal (my cats were quick to note the remaining bit of sheepy smell). This yarn also has a bit of halo that may influence how well the socks wear, but I’m not going to let that bother me either. The nice thing about socks is that they can be nearly perpetually mended.
I’m sure I’ll have much more to say about these yarns when they’ve been knit up, but for the moment a thumbs up on the Westfield Croft Morrit.
I also have some yarn from a producer in the Hebrides that is another Shetland wool with a good tight twist and a lovely hand. Notice the small slubs and flecks. I’m really excited about this wool as well as the ones above, and I think they all will produce nice, comfy socks. Stay tuned!
Meanwhile…
For those of you celebrating the coronation upcoming on Saturday, stock up on your strawberries and cream (it will be a bit early for champagne on this side of the pond). No, I won’t get up early to see it, but a bit of pomp and ceremony are always fun. So keep your glasses raised, and carry on. Until next time……